Komunity Project

17º South - Teahupoo

Description
There can be only one "world's heaviest wave", and that title rests soundly with the wave at Teahupo'o (pronounced Cho-poo). Along the southern end of the smaller of Tahiti's two extinct volcanoes, Tahiti -ti, the tiny town of Teahupo'o is where the pavement stops. Surfers have sampled the South Pacific island since the early 1960s, but prior to the mid-Eighties, surfers had no reason to venture that far, especially considering the wealth of hollow reefbreaks encircling the rest of the island. But one day, a few locals ventured out on a small swell and found that the wave at the end of the road was within the realm of possibility. Teahupo'o is no different from any of the other reef passes around Tahiti -- that is, if they were all pumped on steroids, coffee, and Megadeth. The reef here is very much alive, as you will find out soon after brushing against it for the first time. Infections of the bloodstream are as common as mosquito bites, so a good cleansing is imperative after any break in the skin. Treated properly, you won't have to sit in the boat for long. Teahupo'o's reef is shaped like your left arm if you're looking at your watch. The inside of your arm forms the lagoon while swells approach your upper arm from the left side. Depending on the angle, the wave either forms a flawless barrel or an inescapable nightmare. The more east the swell is, the better your chances of survival. Teahupo'o breaks the mold, not only for Tahiti, but for the world as we know it. The lineup is relatively small, maybe seventy-five yards in all, and there are really only two legitimate takeoff spots. Anything else is an invitation for disaster. Either go deep or not at all. Regardless of takeoff positioning, the ride at Teahupo'o is a short one. A barrel and one turn is pretty much maximum capacity. Any more and a reef dance becomes a near-certainty. But with such intensity, you won't hear anyone complain about the length of the ride. An interesting trait of Teahupo'o -- and one that increases its brute force -- is that regardless of size the wave pretty much breaks in the same place. There is no third reef to diffuse the intensity of massive swells; rather, everything piles up on the inside reef, creating a top-heavy, below sea-level mutant that you wouldn't conjure even while doodling in high school.

Komunity
Showing support for the preservation of the world's ecology, French Polynesia Government President Gaston Tong Sang and his 15 cabinet ministers signed the “Défi de la Terre” (Challenge for the Earth) environment pact on June 6, 2007. Thus, the president of French Polynesia is committed, along with his ministers, to following the terms of the environment pact. The statement he read is as follows:
I commit myself to:
--Limiting damage to the planet in my daily behavior;
--Take part in protecting and improving the environment;
--Fulfilling my responsibilities as a citizen in a spirit of solidarity with other people and future generations;
--Encouraging public and private actors to act under all circumstances in favor of a sustainable development;
--Become an ambassador of the ecological pact by encouraging those close to me to adhere to the pact.

To learn more about the French Polynesia Government's commitment to our planet visit www.presidence.pf.

Places to Eat
The local cuisine is wonderful, so you won't need to bring much food other than some power bars or the like for a quick fix. If you're lodging with a family, they will provide most meals, consisting mostly of fresh fruit, fish, baguettes, and fresh juices.

Getting Around
Public transport (Le Truck) is cheap, frequent, and easy to use. It is just as the name implies, a truck, with bench seats running along the bed. There are designated stops all over the island, but the drivers don't mind pulling over anywhere someone flags them down.

Places to Stay
Ideally, you can afford one of the fabulous, over-water bungalows around Papeete (Beachcomber Parkroyal Hotel 689-86-51-10), but the area can be just as welcoming to cheapskate backpackers. Hostels are available in Papeete for under $20/night, from the Tahiti Budget Lodge (689-42-66-82) to the nearby Teamo Pension (689-42-00-35). A nice, middle-of-the-road alternative is the Sofitel Maeva Beach (689-42-80-42). Taaroa Lodge, run by well-known local surfer Ralph Sanford, is just down down the road from Sapenuse and good value at $20 per night; phone 689-58-39-21. Pension Chayan, 4km from Teahupo'o is reasonable and has become the main surf resort in the area.

Thanks to Surfline for supplying the above info., for more information and photos: http://www.surfline.com/reports/report_travel.cfm?id=8366

19º South - Tavarua

Description
Oh Tavarua. It's a small heart shaped island that lies just off the western shore of Fiji's main island of Viti Levu, serves as the standard for this modern day surf amusement park like no other. And while staying at Tavarua, you have access to two world class lefts. Sitting a mile south of Tavarua, the world-class left hander named Cloudbreak is actually the eastern edge of an expansive, shallow coral reef pass that receives the undiminished force of Southern Hemisphere swells. Surfers with little travel experience should note that outer-reef waves like Cloudbreak travel much faster than their continental-land-mass counterparts (California, East Coast, Europe, etc.), and if you don't concentrate on getting to your feet quickly, chances are that you will find yourself picking coral from your back before you can yell, "Got it!". Despite what you may have heard, Cloudbreak can be relatively sectiony, and the lineup involves a large playing field. The swell sweeping toward the reef generally focuses on one of three general areas: the Point (aka "the top" or "up top"), the Middle and the Inside (aka Shishkabobs). The inside section is known as Shishkabobs for a reason: a standard visitor's tax is paid in flesh to the sharp, skewer-like reef that lies just below the surface. Even for the experienced surfer, sizable Cloudbreak can represent a significantly intimidating experience. Thick, fast-moving lefts can hit different parts of the reef at a number of different angles, and it can often be a difficult task figuring out where to be to catch the best waves. Once you get it wired, a good session at Cloudbreak is nothing short of a complete barrel-fest. If large Cloudbreak isn't your cup of tea, then you'll be pleased to know that Tavarua offers the best Plan B in surf travel: Restaurant's. Just a relatively short, dry-hair paddle from Tavarua itself, this reefbreak got its name because you can scarf pancakes at the island's eatery while you watch your buddies get tubed out of their minds. Depending on the angle of the swell, Restaurant's will usually be about half the size of Cloudbreak, but what it loses in proportion, it makes up for in quality: long, sectionless lefts wrap around the reef that surrounds the western side of Tavarua and push off at such an ideal speed and uniformity that it produces one of the most flattering rides on the planet. But before you go trying an alley-oop after your 20th five-second tube in a row, remember that Restaurant's does have another potentially negative feature: the reef.

Komunity
Fiji's reefs took a major hot-water hammering in 2000 and 2002, leading to widespread bleaching. These reefs are prime ground for scientists struggling to understand the catastrophic decline of Earth's coral habitats. Corals tend to regenerate well after disastrous occurrences like cyclones, disease, predators, and volcanic eruptions. Yet, the carbon-dioxide-rich atmosphere humanity is brewing, and the resulting rise in sea temperatures, may cripple coral's ability to recover. Support is growing to create protected areas around some of Fiji's reefs, where scientists can hunt for answers. Protection will help ensure that bleaching events won't be compounded by polluted runoff, over fishing, or eager tourists. But in the end, human ability to turn down the heat may ultimately determine either death or renewal.

To learn more visit www.worldwildlife.org

Places to Eat
The restaurant at the Tavarua Resort, is where very hungry surfers dine on very fine food. But you have to be a guest. A visit to Tavarua in the '80s involved three basic meals per day, and the food has only improved since then. These meals are served buffet-style and include pancakes, eggs, toast, cereals, sandwiches, soups, salads, burritos, chicken, local Fijian dishes, curries, pasta and, of course, fresh fish.

Places to Stay
For one all-inclusive weekly rate, you can surf, deep-sea fish, take a guided sightseeing tour, paddle a sea kayak, kick your feet up in a shaded hammock, play volleyball, skin dive, lounge around the pool in the tropical sun, walk along an exclusive palm-fringed beach, sleep in a fan-cooled "bure" (pronounced BUR-ay) and eat three square meals a day. You can also drink a muddy, slightly hallucinogenic mixture called Kava and make friends with the local Fijians, some of the warmest and least pretentious people on Earth. In fact, if you can afford to go to Tavarua, there only seems to be one significant flaw: getting a reservation. This can be the traveling equivalent of nabbing the wave of the day at Pipeline. Contact Tavarua Island Tours at 805-686-4451 or visit www.tavarua.com for more information.

Surf Shops
Tavarua has a small gift shop that sells leashes, board bags, T-shirts, etc., but you're smart to bring a stash of back-up gear.

21º North - Pipeline

Description
Probably the best-known surf spot in the world, Pipe is capable of pulling the most incredible disappearing acts. In a slack winter with lots of dribbly north swells and bad wind, the casual observer, rolling up to Ehukai Beach Park and gazing west, wouldn't have any idea it was there. Located midway along Oahu’s North Shore, Pipeline is the result of an outer reef refraction effect, which in the ideal swell direction (west) pulls waves squarely onto its flat lava tabletop. When such a swell hits the North Shore, suddenly the wave that wasn't there comes roaring back, with all the energy and animal beauty that's drawn surfers to it for generations. Even when it's small, a west swell at first reef Pipe is always tremendously powerful, breaking hard on the reef and holding a lot of energy in the lip, which is best avoided during wipeouts. At four feet it's an exciting little left barrel with a soft shoulder reforming down the line. At six feet it's arguably at its most dangerous, taking no prisoners in the drop. At eight to 10 feet, it begins to open up a little more, with some waves breaking on another slab of the inside reef 10 or 15 yards outside the main zone, allowing an easier entry and time to select from a range of possible lines. At 12 feet, waves begin breaking in big foamy lumps on Second Reef another 80 yards or so outside; Pipe itself becomes a second reform section, sometimes a steep flat wall, other times a mad belching pit. In smaller, peakier northwest swells, the wave becomes a dual option, with super hollow rights funneling across toward its close neighbor Off-The-Wall; in recent years this wave (Backdoor) has become even better known than its left-hand cousin, at least if you count the number of pictures in surf magazines. There can be no doubt that Pipeline is the most crowded surf spot in the entire world. From dawn to dusk most days through the winter, it's packed, whether or not it's any good. Yet with death or glory you can almost touch, Pipeline is surfing’s ultimate arena. Plenty of surf spots are longer, many are bigger and some are even gnarlier, but Pipe offers the greatest 10 seconds on Earth, making it the most coveted and recognizable wave on the planet. It is the yardstick by which all other breaks are measured.

Komunity
The combined stress of global warming and ocean acidification has many coral reef biologists very concerned. Ocean acidification is a buzz word for marine biologist these days. The term refers to an increase in atmospheric gases, caused mainly by fossil fuels burning. Marine biologists say global warming, and increased levels of carbon dioxide are killing Hawaii's coral reefs. When reefs suffer, the ecosystems that depend on them are dangerously compromised. Currently, there are several studies being conducted on the effects of global warming and increased carbon dioxide in both the main and Northwestern Hawaiian Islands. Scientists believe that global warming has lead to coral bleaching throughout the island chain. The national oceanic and atmospheric administration has granted the University of Hawaii nearly 2 million dollars, to improve their ability to research and protect coastal waters.

To learn more log onto

www.reefcheckhawaii.org

Places to Eat
Right on the North Shore, you're limited to Foodland, the delicious and fairly cheap lunch cart in front of Foodland; the Sunset Diner by Kammie's Market and the restaurant in the Turtle Bay. As you head into Haleiwa, there are all kinds of restaurants. Surfer's favorites include: Haleiwa Joes (good, but expensive seafood), right by the bridge; Cholos Mexican Food, in the North Shore Market Place; Kua Aina (sandwiches and burgers), right in the middle of main st; and Jameson's By the Sea, overlooking Haleiwa Harbor. You can save money by shopping in the Mililani Costco.

Places to Stay
Ironically, there's not a whole heap of options on the North Shore -- this is not Kuta, Bali, where there's thirty kazillion cheap rooms available. There's the slightly expensive Turtle Bay Hilton (1-800-445-8667; 808-293-8811) that has rooms as well as condos (808-293-0600) for rent; there's a referral service (808-638-7873) that can hook you up with private rooms as well as hostels and hotels; there's Backpacker's Plantation Village (808-638-7838); there's the Keiki Beach Bungalows (808-638-8829); and if all else fails, there's the bulletin board in front of Foodland that often lists places to stay.

Thanks to Surfline for supplying the above info., for more information and photos: http://www.surfline.com/reports/report_travel.cfm?id=4750

33º North - Trestles

Description
At the edge of Orange County's suburbia nightmare lies the Trestles experience -- one-and-a-half miles of God's country. What makes it so irresistible? Obviously, the 100-yard lefts and rights -- which make even the most mundane surfer feel like Kelly Slater -- has something to do with it. But the complete Trestles experience offers so much more than a few tail-drifting off-the-lips. Trestles is a fresh breath of air within the folds of the suffocating Orange Curtain. With so many breaks in the area serving fast-food-type waves, it's nice to know that there's a spot that still requires a little effort. Surprisingly enough, the effort to get there doesn't keep enough people away. Trestles is always crowded during summer, particularly at Lowers. And the rest of the breaks -- Uppers, Cotton's, Church and everywhere in between -- have their share of hungry waveriders. Still, it's possible to get your share of quality waves; the kind where you hit the lip a half dozen times and start to think you're much better than you really are. All of the breaks at Trestles have that magic -- the ability to keep you coming back making the 20-minute walks, dodging the train and the surfers, to score that one ego-boosting wave.

Komunity
A southern expansion of the 241, Foothill-South, is currently being planned for the Foothill Toll Road. The locally preferred route would expand the toll road to meet with Interstate 5 at the San Diego County line near San Onofre. The idea is controversial because it would take the road directly through the sensitive San Mateo Creek watershed, which is home to 11 federally endangered or threatened species. If completed as planned, the project would also result in the permanent loss of a significant portion of San Onofre State Park, as well as impact the Donna O'Neill Land Conservancy. Surfrider, among other environmental organizations, maintain that the TCA's recommended alignment of the 241 toll road extension poses a significant threat to the water and wave quality of Trestles Beach. The proposed toll road route has six miles of the sixteen-mile stretch of asphalt running parallel to San Mateo Creek. Surfrider believes the sediment will likely be offset because of the underground concrete reinforcement that is needed for the building of new roads. They've also raised water quality concerns because of the area's rolling hills. If not properly contained, highway runoff could potentially lead down to the river and ultimately the ocean. The surf industry has rallied behind the Save Trestles movement. For more up to date information and to find out how you can help visit www.savetrestles.org.

Places to Eat
For quick eats, go to Pedro's Tacos (2313 S. El Camino Real, San Clemente). It's the locals' favorite pit stop. Bean and cheese burritos are thick and gooey and cheap. Fish tacos are from another planet. Don't have to wait too long to get it, either. Carls Jr. is right next to the Trestles parking lot. It may not be healthy and it may not be authentic, but it puts those hunger pangs to sleep.

Places to Stay
San Mateo campground. Exit Cristianitos, go left and follow your nose till you see the campground on the right. Kind of an older folks campground, with Winnebagos and grandma and grandpa playing bridge from sunrise till dusk. If you want the younger crew, camp out at San Onofre campground, just past good old San O'. Summer nights provide plenty of booze, teenagers and fun. For both campsite reservations call 800-444-7275. Eighteen bucks a night camping on Friday and Saturday.

Things to Do
Go for a walk along the pier, beaches, streets -- San Clemente is the antithesis of Huntington Beach. Sleepy, beautiful and uncrowded, it was even rated as one of the top five beach cities in the United States by Men's Journal. San Clemente Pier and Avenida del Mar are two great places to go for a stroll. If you cross the train tracks just at the southern end of T Street, there is a dirt pathway that winds all the way down to Uppers. Great trail for jogging, mountain biking or wandering aimlessly.

Read More About This Spot At Surfline.com

34º South - J Bay

Description
What hasn't been said about J-Bay? More superlatives have been crammed onto this wave than any other wave in the world. Still, no matter what you've read or seen in mags or on movies, nothing can prepare you for when you finally stand in front of it and watch a six-foot wave peel down the point. Starting at the heavily localised Boneyards section of the wave, then connecting to the much-vaunted Supertubes section, into Impossible, Tubes, Coins and Point, before firing all the way down to the beachbreak called Albatross, the entire vision will elicit a jaw dropping response. Boneyards is localised and it is not easy to surf here or get a wave. It is a full-on barrel when it is cooking, and it even provides a few lefts into the beachbreak around the other side on the high tide. It's a sucking reef, and some people have been seriously drilled here. Supertubes is the reason why people come to J-Bay. It is a full speed run of perfection that lets you get barrelled, go the fastest you have ever gone before, surf differently, carve, feel your board under your feet for the first time, surf with a massive smile on your face. If you can get a wave that is. It gets pretty darn crowded and some of the local people are kinda ornery. Patience and perseverance are probably the keys here. Impossibles is pretty much that - impossible. Some people have made it through for the mile long run through to the point but it's a rare situation that allows for it. When looking at 8-foot Impossibles it's a gnarly, scary section of wave that you really don't want to have much to do with. Make it through though and you will have achieved something to tell the grandparents. Tubes is a little section of reef that does just that - tubes. Quite fickle, when it comes alive it is a ridiculous barrel from take-off to kick out. No one really looks at it because when Tubes is good so is Supers. Coins. So named because it is so round. It's Kelly Slater's favorite section of reef, and no one really surfs it, so you can get a bit of breathing space in an environment that sometimes can be quite stifling, especially if you're an 8 times world champ. Point. The most fun wave in the area, user friendly, and a place where groms, longboarders, girls and moms can all get a few waves. Usually a tad smaller than further up the point, it's a great introduction to Jeffreys' Bay. Albatross is the final section of the point, and is the end section or beachbreak section. Gets a bit wobbly and weird, but can get good. No one ever really checks here either because when it's good there are usually better waves further up the point.

Komunity
South Africa is one of only 17 countries worldwide considered Megadiverse. It has more than 20,000 different plants, or about 10% of all the known species of plants on Earth, making it particularly rich in plant biodiversity. South Africa is the third most biodiverse country in the world, after Brazil andIndonesia and has greater biodiversity than any country of equal or smaller size (Brazil being roughly seven times South Africa's size, and Indonesia more than 50% larger). Climate change is expected to bring considerable warming and drying to much of this already semi-arid region, with greater frequency and intensity of extreme weather events such as heatwaves, flooding and drought. According to computer generated climate modeling produced by the South African National Biodiversity Institute (SANBI) (along with many of its partner institutions), parts of southern Africa will see an increase in temperature by about one degree Celsius along the coast to more than four degrees Celsius, in the already hot hinterland, such as the Northern Cape, in late spring and summertime by 2050. The Cape Floral Kingdom has been identified as one of the global biodiversity hotspots since it will be hit very hard by climate change and has such a great diversity of life. Drought, increased intensity and frequency of fire and climbing temperatures are expected to push many of these rare species towards extinction. To find out more visit www.sanbi.org.

Places to Eat
Also many restaurants. One of the best is Steve Walsh's Sushi Restaurant - 20 Pepper Street. Freshest sushi, live music, ph: (042) 293 1401.

Places to Stay
With so many places to stay, try right on the water's edge overlooking Supers. A cool and reasonable spot is African Perfection. Ph: (042) 293 1401. But the best way to find what you're looking for is through the Board of Tourism (042) 293-2588, or go online and visit www.jeffreysbaytourism.com.

Things to Do
This area of Africa is home to each of the Big Six -- lions, rhinos, elephants, buffalo, leopards and whales -- and they are all worth viewing. The unique biome supports more animals, birds and insects per square inch than anywhere on earth. And unlike many areas of the world, you can enjoy the wildlife in a malaria-free environment. The Seaview Game and Lion Park (041-378-1702) is the closest spot, where you can wrestle with lion cubs just thirty minutes from Jeffreys for 35 Rand (around four bucks). Around an hour away is Addo Elephant National Park, boasting hundreds of Dumbos for your viewing and riding pleasure.

To read more about Trestles, check out surfline:  http://www.surfline.com/reports/report_travel.cfm?id=4740

38º South - Bells

Description
Lying three miles southwest of the small town of Torquay, Victoria, along what's now known as the Surf Coast, Bells Beach is perhaps Australia's iconographic surf spot -- a place engraved in the hearts and minds of all Aussie surfers of the past 40 years. The history of Bells as a surfing beach extends back into the early post-war years, when in 1949, a group of Torquay-based surfers and bodysurfers began riding their motorbikes out to Bells along the cliff tops, riding waves in the shorebreak and catching crayfish in the rock pools. Bells is a broad sediment-rock reef break, and when it's on, it breaks for over 250 meters over the flat reef bottom. Its angle and position expose the break to a range of swells from major southern ocean storms, which sweep beneath the Australian continent every few days. Pulling in at The Bells/Winki parking lot, in the world's first Surfing Recreation Reserve, is a special treat, particularly when its six feet plus. At that size, you'll see rolling lines of swell well before you've entered the car park -- it's a sight sure to get the adrenaline pumping. Winki is without doubt a world-class wave. It's rideable from three feet (choose the lower tides), great from five feet, and unforgettable from 8 feet and up (all tides). On a typical three to five foot day there are two distinct sections, Uppers and Lowers. Get the right wave from Uppers and you'll connect through Lowers for one of the rides of your life. The paddle-out offers two choices. When its small you can head out in front of the break. When it gets bigger, paddle out from the beach at Bells. Take the path from the Winki car park and head to the right, down onto the sand at Bells. Watch the sets breaking out at Bells and wait for a nice gap. You want to be a good ten metres away from the reef to your left, known as The Button--you do not want to get swept onto it. Bells Beach has two defined waves. Rincon breaks on high tides when the waves are four feet and under, peaking on a distinct ledge and then peeling nicely beneath the limestone cliffs all the way through to the beach. The Bowl is the premier wave, though when the swell is four feet and under it only breaks on low tide. Over five feet though, and the Bowl comes into its own. Get Bells Bowl at ten feet and you'll remember it for the rest of your life. When its this big, paddle out from the inside corner of the beach, closest to the cliffs. Timing is crucial - the sweep will quickly drag you sideways along the beach. You'll probably need to punch through a chunky shorebreak waves before you make it into open water.

Komunity
The "Surfcoastshire" shoreline around Bell's Beach shows clearly that it's possible to protect Nature against the demographics. When you consider its relatively short distance away from the larger cities of Melbourne and Geelong, you start wondering how it's possible to maintain virgin cliffs and shore paths with so many people behind. From Jan Juc to Lorne, the coastline is a pure gem of red-yellow limestone cliffs void of any concrete, restaurants or other unnecessary constructions. This is the site of a surfing contest first held in 1962, making it the longest-running professional surfing event in the nation and the world. The consistency and excellence of the surf saw Bells become the site of the world amateur board-riding championships in 1970. In the early 1970s, clever guys of the Rip Curl and Quiksilver crews initiated the project of Bells being the first Surfing Reserve in the world. Since 1970, and with the help of the Australian Parliament, the area is fully dedicated to the surf and no construction shall ever be made for any other purposes. Even back then, the locals already felt that such a fragile environment could easily be trashed by beach crowds. It has become a fixture on the world professional circuit, and is the spot for the men's contest now known as the Rip Curl Pro. In the year 2000, Bells was listed as a site of historical significance by the Victorian branch of the National Trust. To learn more visit www.sanesurfers.org.

Places to Eat
There's a couple of shops at Bird Rock where you can grub, or head into Torquay for more variety - fast food, bakeries, fish and chips, restaurants, and pub meals are all available.

Places to Stay
Torquay Caravan Park, heaps of backpackers and hotels - options for all budgets.

Surf Shops
If you can't find a surf shop around here you aren't looking. This is the home of surfing in Australia and has more surf shops per capita than anywhere else in the world! Try these names for starters: Rip Curl, Quiksilver, Billabong.

Check out more info and photos at   http://www.surfline.com/reports/report_travel.cfm?id=6488

43º North- Hossegor

Description
Hossegor has become one of the premier surfing locations in Europe, with a series of world class beach breaks such as Gravière, La Nord, Capbreton, La Piste and Seignosse. It supports a thriving nightlife through the summer, centered at the world famous Dicks Sand Bar and Rock Food on La Plage Centrale. This long stretch of scalloped golden sand has earned a reputation as the best beachbreak in Europe and one of the best in the world, all for good reason: tubes. Thick, meaty shorebreak barrels that'll leave you picking sand out of various orifices for weeks after a solid session. There's a huge trench offshore, not unlike Black's in San Diego, so the swell gets focused on the few miles of sand that make up Hossegor. The locals surf well and know each other, which is hard to tell with the French as grandmothers seemingly vibe you on the street. And those days of perfect empty French beachbreak are pretty much over. Unless you don't mind walking (the beach does extend about 130 miles north of Hossegor, with few access points -- you do the math) or don't mind donning some serious rubber (water temps in winter hover in the mid to high 40s), you'll be dealing with other surfers, just like most any other so-called First World country with surf. Exercise caution -- the tides in France are extreme. They can vary by 20 feet, where California tides will vary 8 feet max, and the sandbank that you surf in the morning will probably be closeout shorepound by lunch. Tide books are key. It's also prone to Atlantic flat spells, so make sure to bring a couple of books and a deck of cards. If you're driving, you can leave your car in the parking lot at Les Estangots or park on the road in front of the peak of your choice. Stick to one of the many access trails, though -- the dunes are fragile ecosystems.

Komunity
A fall morning after a storm in Hossegor will reveal an entirely international array of detritus washed up on the beach. There are bleach bottles in Spanish, bits of tire with Portuguese writing, German candy wrappers, French perfume bottles, pieces of boat hull with Arabic lettering -- it's as though all of Europe decided that the Bay of Biscay would be the best place for a garbage dump. Up until the last decade or so, the Atlantic wasn't really used in the winter months, so nobody really cared what it looked like. The bulldozers cleaned all the trash for the summer tourists, but as soon as September came around, you had to walk through a minefield of refuse to get to the beautiful offshore (and potentially hepatitis-ridden) barrels. All this is slowly beginning to change. Surfrider Europe and Greenpeace have been working with the French public and politicians to change their traditional "throw-all-the-crud-in-the-river" ways. Surfrider Europe has a program called "Black Flags" where they monitor water quality at the French surfing beaches and post black flags up when the water's bacteria count exceeds a standardized safety level. Gives a whole new meaning to the concept of blackball, eh? Go to surfrider.org to find out more ways you can help.

Places to Eat
There's a bunch of sandwich places and bars at the south end of the beach, but surfers have been eating, drinking and merrymaking at the Rock Food (05 58 43 43 27) for years. There's also a fine Aussie-owned sushi place up in Seignosse called the sushibar (05 58 43 15 06).

Places to Stay
There are two campgrounds near Hossegor, both just east of the lake: Camping du Lac, around 60 FF per night (05 58 43 53 14, www.camping-du-lac.com) and Municipal la Foret for around the same price (05 58 43 75 92). If you find yourself wanting to go feral and live in a van for a while, Hossegor Vans (05 58 43 50 68; www.hossegor-van.fr) is a surfer-friendly van-rental operation. If you've got a little cash and want a hotel that's stumbling distance to Rock Food and Le Graviere, check out Hotel Amigo (180-370FF per night, 05 58 43 54 38) or Les Arbousiers (studios with kitchens: 1,200-2,950FF per week; rooms: 1,000-2,000FF per week, 05 58 43 51 05). Take a look at www.ville-soorts-hossegor.fr/ang/index.html for even more tourist information.

 


The next generation, now in progress.